Saturday, July 17, 2010

Day 2 Part 2

..........while I, after a refreshing cuppa, set off to walk along the west coast and look (unsuccessfully) for puffins. The 400ft cliffs are home to many sea birds but despite frequent scanning with my binoculars, the nearest I got to a puffin was a piece of rubbish in the sea that could have been a puffin floating on its back ? (not very likely) and groups of guillemots which are black and white like puffins but without the distinctive orange beak. They are both members of the auk family and a similar-ish shape. Last year's bird survey for the island only recorded 93 birds so they are few and far between. Lundy means puffin island in old Norse and there used to be thousands of puffins on the island. At every turn there was something interesting to see. It was so tempting to explore every little cove but some of them will have to wait until next time.
At Jenny's Cove there are some 100ft high rock formations known as The Cheeses. The crystalline structure of granite causes it to weather and crack into blocks that almost look as if they are the ruins of some ancient structure.


I include this rather odd picture with my foot intruding to give an idea of the scale of things. As mentioned before I do have a fear of heights. However there was something very comforting about the stability of the granite rocks and the fact that I was sitting on a flat surface leaning against a rock behind me drove out all fear. I sat for some time on this 'cheese', legs dangling, while looking for puffins. A little 'Oo-er' when my binoculars took me swooping down vertical surfaces to sea level but no fear. Later I was scrambling down quite steep grassy slopes above the cliffs to get to good vantage points from where I could scan for sea birds.
The central rock formation is the one I was sitting on/in! Behind can be seen Quarter Wall, one of 3 walls built before 1800. Guess the names of the other 2.
As I was hot footing back to the cottage my attention was diverted by this stone wall leading down and out of sight. Being of an enquiring mind (nosy), I had to follow the path, down and round it went becoming a set of steps that led to a ruined building nestling against the cliff.

Below that building were some more steps cut into the rock leading to yet another building with a canon on either side. (I did have a picture on the blog but have just deleted it by accident and can't get it on in the same place.) This is The Battery and the canon were fired when conditions were foggy to warn ships that they were approaching danger. Yet one more fascinating part of the island. It was then a long slog back up to the top and a brisk march back to the cottage. During my walk not only had I seen stupendous scenery and countless birds but I'd also seen many rabbits including black rabbits, Soay sheep, wild goats and wild ponies one of which came up to me for a sniff hoping for a free handout.
Our evening was spent in the Tavern, feasting on roast lamb, (prices were very reasonable). We had been eyeing up the desserts being served to other people in the Tavern so Romas and Vicky were going to share one (portions were generous) but couldn't make up their minds between the bread and butter pudding, a cross between a souffle and a loaf of bread and the chocolate tart so we ended up having both shared between 3 of us. You can put everything on your tab and you settle your bill at the end of your stay. The Tavern does not allow mobile phones or laptops and there is no electronic entertainment or music which is a refreshing change. However as it was the World Cup final an exception had been made and a tv projector set up in a back room for those who wanted to watch the football. Peter went off to watch while Romas, Vicky and I remained in the bar playing scrabble. The gig rowers had all gone early in the morning so there it was much less crowded than the previous night. We were not without entertainment as a girl brought out a fiddle and began playing folk music. She was sitting at a table with some of the island staff who with and without accompaniment began singing sea shanties and folk songs. In the lulls Romas and I contributed some Lithuanian folk songs though we did keep laughing when we couldn't get past the first verse and chorus of most of them. Vicky and Romas did join in with some of the English folk songs though quietly which I thought was a shame as they have good voices. At the end of the evening it was a dark walk back through the fields followed by some ponies and a foal, before rounding off the evening filling in the log book and being caught out by the 12.00 electricity cut off.

And finally, today was Green Man Day in Pilton, a street fair and festival dating back to Edward III. Peter and I went, saw lots of people we knew, listened to bands, bought food and plants and had a very sociable day.